Nassau Post 19180614; Title

              THE   NASSAU  POST. FRKRPO        RT, N  Y., FRIDAY,/TTNE 14, 191« Pmtft «
SLEEVE STYLE IS MAHEROFCHOICE
More New Arm Coverings for
Spring Than Ever Before
in History.
IFFORDS CHANCE TO REMODEL
B«vere Qowns May Be Made Brilliant
by Sleeves From Assyria, Egypt
and Early Frsnch History
—Ths Cape.
New York.—Tho wpnther proph«>t."» ODd the fnshlon- prophtts do not go throuKh life hand In hnnd. There \n no rordlnllty between thttn, It would Reom, Jurliflnff from the wn.v In which they oppose enfh other, observes n leading fashion wrlf<>r.
You mny have nofleed this slttintlon In some sUftht measure, ns nn oh.'^erv- or on the side lines, curing triore nhriut thf! stnte of the wcnihcr thnn the state of faPhlons; hut those wlio must den! with the Idtter ns n diill.v l.'JSiie, and must try to conform the outjuit of fnshlon.s with the output of the sky, deplore tlic sepnrntlon.
The utter HUiliicity thnt women have shown since the be).'lnnni^,' of time In rejjnrd to ihe riiprlces of Ilie weather Ih n pnrt of the history of the clvHl- EUtlon of mnn. To return to that tic- lenf: It wns prohaMy the only time In history when thu climate wfis met with the rlfiht sort of costume. Since then, the world of women has pone on the path that suRnest.s ohstlnpcy.
Take, ns an exnmple of the perv-er.s- Ity of tho present moment, the Incom¬ ing fashion of 5-lnch sleeves nt n time when kid gloves are dldicult to pay. for. The women of today, we nre quite sure, have n-) Idea of nttcmptin;; the methods of the dlrectoire by goinK nbfiut the streets with entirely bare nrm.s, Josephine, the empress of the French, may have lielleved that tho short sleeve was correct for her time; but this Is n workday world, full of the ru.sh und Imiietus of activity—and open-air nctlvlty at tlmt. Wc mlsht have a chnnce of iookhiK like n gr<iup let loose from a boiler factory nt mid¬ day in Aupust, If we rushed about tho streets with our athletic and slightly red arms protruding from 5-Inch capos, wlUiout sleeves.
Ideas In New Sleeves.
One. feels, in nmning full tilt ngnlnst the tidal wave of new sleeves, the utter futility of trying to describe even the best of them, Ono would think that the world hnd gone quite mad over arm coverings. Possibly it Is true that the French and* American designers, realizing that they could not Introduce anything especially brilllHnt or novel in the new costumery because, of the lack of materials, put their genius to work in devising a vast variety of complex and stimulating minor details.
However,  this   does  not  contribute
This (70wn, in Bordeaux red, thowa a novel sKirt with draped tides and a harem her«. Front panel of blscult- colorcd cloth embroidered ih gold and red threads. Long sleeves of biscuit tulle.
to the pleasure,a vviwuan thinks she will find in wearing her old clothes. We are wlst^enougtt to know, that It Is tn the adoption uf chuuRing details that the aiujorlty of women show lhelr knowledge of fa'shlonii. A woman may continue to wear u blue serge* gown cut In the form of u^cout and skirt, If she reuUses thnt she must iustaatly adapt thst gown to the tight, or the loose cuff, the high or the low waist¬ line, the gather or* the plain hip. A somersault iu costumery Is uot always tollowea, even by well-dressed women, but tliey will «lo honor to a Quick chauge in Ibe uiaur detail of a co*- tUme.
A uilllioa wumea weaii sailor collars wb«Mi they coiue into fashlou,'a>tliough they may sttuib them to a gowu that baa tbe wrung Uae la certain plu-^ea. OtMiM millluB woaiea drop sallu; caW lara when tbi-y go cut of faahlou aad tak« op the long, rolling Toxedo cottar
when It beconips thf dominant fi^ntnrm.
Thfrcfnrc, when «leeve« rhanr*" womon chflnge wl'ti them, Whai-ver else the co!«tnme re(l«'Ct.^ thnt h «Tong or right, good or bfld. It nearly alrrnyn keeps pare with the chfinge In the arm covering nnd In the neckline.
In Humming up the situntion of to¬ dny, one feels porr.v for the woman who would try to keep np with the i»hi(tlng knleldosr-ope of Rle.ve that the dpslgners have turned upon nn.
However, a comforting solution of this Btartling sftuntlon \n thnt every ulcere Beem.s to be In fnshlon, nnd If R womnn becomes paralyzed from even regarding the over-produ(*Tlon of new spring sleeves, xhe ran merely go on with the nleeve she hns nnd feel that she Is In pnrt of the picture, If not In the forepart of It. "
Long Sleeves Fashionable.
And to show you how caprlcSotis ffl.shlon Is this year, the longer tho sleeve the more fashionable It Is; that
The sketch shows a cape of sand-col¬ ored silk cashmere lined with Jade- green crepe de chine. The high collar Is e^ged with green silk, which alao makes Ihe long cravat.
Is, If It starts out to be long In an evening gown It nmy cr)ntinue to tho knees; giving the effect of extreme novelty.
These long evening sleeves are of tulle, aud .sometimes of ^ne vermicelli Ince caught In some manner against tho arm, so thnt they will not fall away from the hand as It moves. This Is pure medievalism.
There are sleeves taken from the Italian renaissance. These arc cut to Immense bell-shaped openings at three- quarter length, rolled back on them¬ selves in a careless manner, nnd lined with Itoman striped silk or with crepe de chine In a blazing color.
There are pointed, bell-shaped bieeves which hang loose from a wide armhole, gaily faced at the lower edge, but held taut by a tight-folded wrist¬ let that spreads over tbe hand, after tho manner made fashionable by the eatly queens of Frnnce.
There Is a skin-tight sleeve of the dlrectoire, which also flares over the hand and sometimes has an ornate thumb-hole through which that finger Is thrust.
There are sleeves for the street that are formed of wrinkled cloth, that reach from the knuckles of the hand to flare like a gauntlet well above the elbow, leaving just enough space be¬ tween the edge and the shoulder to show the cap sleeve of another color and fabric.
Capes Are  Numerous.
Thero are aS many capes as sleeves tills season. Even If you aro Indif¬ ferent to new clothes you eannot es¬ cape those two features. There Is no reason for your wanting to avoid them, for they <Mt many a (Jonlian knot. Tho capo covers much; tlu; new sleeves re¬ deem nnic'h.
The top coat is only ndmls^hle to¬ day wh«'n it is a doiiblo first eoii.sin to tlie capo. If (t^ripple.s from the sltoiil- (Iit; if Its sleeves st-cin to be a part of that ripple, and If its fastening' down the front is m^digibU', then the top coat Is admitted into the society of tho lust clothes. Otherwise, it must bo liarred. v
The cape rules the hour. It gl^es evepy woman with an attenuated, cos¬ tume, made according to the request of the government, a cftanre to toko to herself the trace of a butterfly. She dUyulses the luck of material In lior frock by ripping out her cape and. looking like some winged summer crea¬ ture thn< has a right to the beauty and Joy of life.
No woman should try to escape the cape. If she is stout 'she luust ar¬ range her garment In some way that will allow her 16 get this backg»ound of color and, grace.
There are severe capes and gay capes, ornate cajtes and simple ones. It Is not necessary to maUe oae choice. Even women o^ small means seem to be sble to posses* -o or three capes for dUTerent occasiona. Tbey^are of chiffon edgfd with fas for the after¬ noon and for summer evenings; they are of gaberdine, severely stitched, for the street at eleven in tbe morning; tbey are ot dark-blue allk serge lined with artillfry tc-4 or Chinese yellow, for tbe country and for couutry eluba. (Copyricbt, ttU. by< the McClure Newspa¬ per Byndlcat*.)
 «	
Spanish Shawla  Ravivsd.
A treiueuduuM revival of flrinlafc •hawla haa a«t la atru«4.
OOTFIT FOR BRIDE
Ivory White Satin Remains the Favored Material.
Lacs la Again Fashionable and Often
Family   Heirlooms   Are   Used—
The Qoing-Av»ay Gown.
.»^.
Thflugh no one he(rrndce«i the hrldfr of this year her triidltionnl bridal pnnoply of Ivory sntln, laee nnd tulle. It Is Hot expected of her to provide nn elnhomte nnd expensive trousseau of hnndsomp evening gowns nn<l stunning afternoon costumes, stntes n fnshlon writer. Tho scntlmnnt of the times Is against displny In dress, and this year's dearth of formal entertnln- ments, of the usiinl sequence of bnlls nnd dinners and house parties pre¬ cludes the necessity of a large supply of costly clothes for nnyltody—even for the bride who Is supposed to en- Joy n sperini program of gaieties In the flrst months of her married life.
IIftne>Tnoons nre being •cut phort this yenr—ns a rule the !)rldegroom, after a brief fiirlomih for his wedding and the ensuing trip of a week or ten dnys, goes bnrk tn his regiment or to his ship nnd fhe bride Settles down quietly with her home people—or nenr them—nnd though she poes out for- mnlly, has naturally not much henrt for formal  affairs.
The wedding day costume, however. Is another matter. It wotild be an un¬ natural bride who did nf>t clnlm her full privilege of bridal pnnoply, per¬ haps claim It the more detennlnedly because robbed of other privileges of brides In normal times. A woman cnn be a bride but once, and even in wnr- tlme she wants to wenr tho trnlling white sntln, the penrls, the orange blossoms nnd the symbolic veil which mny be hers on this one great ocni- Plon—and this one only—of all her life. Mnny a beautiful wedding gown hns been worn this year nnd the sum¬ mer wedding gowns promise to be no less beautiful than those of midwin¬ ter. Ivory white sntln, tho trnditlon- al 'n)rlde" satin, is the favored mate¬ rial fnr fho wedding (rown ami though the spring models keep to tho slender fillhonefte now Insisted upon by fash- Ion, there nre many lovely ways of breaking the straight, slim lines with foft draperies and panels of airy fiib- rlc. Lace Is again fashionable on the bridal gown and some nn^ trimmed with rare old jiolnt nnd Venice Inces hnvo come down as family heirlooms. Qf the newer laces, ehndow lace Is the fnvorite, because of Its dellcnto texture and lovely draping qualities. Eml)roldero<l chiffon is used also, and pearl embroidered chiffon Is epeclally distinguished.
Every bride nowadays Beems to seek some Individual and original veil ar¬ rangement and many aro the Interest¬ ing caps and coronets of lace or tulle from which the veil falls at the back to the end of the train. The Russian cap, rising to a peok nt the front, has been used, and various sorts of peas- anv cop, modified or exaggerated In line nnd carried ouf in lace, tulle or silver tissue. The veil now covers, or almost covets, the hair as a aiodern hat does and Is no longer poised or perched high on the head, caught by a puff of tulle or a cluster of orange blossoms.
Second only In Iriportance to the bridal gown Is thc^smart costume In which the bride bids farewell to her friends and.sjtgtPts awny to begin her married life. The golng-away gown, as It Is always cnlled, is less often a gown, than a tailored suit of fortnal and elaborate type; sometimes It Is a gown covered by a very smart top¬ coat—when the bride starts her wed¬ ding trip In a motorcnr. This practi¬ cal costume will most likely, this spring, be a tailored suit of dark blue tricot serge made with a straight, plnin skirt- and dashing little Jacket In loose box or Eton stylo nnd the bride will certainly possess one or two attractive waistcoats to dd the suit Justice ; one walstrt^iat perhaps of dotted foulard silk, tho otln^r of beige silk poplin, or of pearl gray falllo Bilk.
Summer Frocks of Silk. Wash silk,is to be very.pjuch worn this summer, both In striptul and plain. Smart little frocks are iimde of heavy white habutnl. An unusually good model for a young girl in her early teens Is shown, made of white habutal, Tho material is of a very houvy, lus¬ trous quality. Tbe middy blouse at the round uei'k and cuffs is ornament¬ ed withia line of colored embroidery und large ball buttons embroidered In color hang from the cuffs. The skirt Is gathered In panel effect at the back nnd frout.» For the'simplest of these cotton frocks all the old favorites are used—lawns, dimities, pinghums and voiles. Olnghams hnvo grown In grace Irom season to season until both plain aud In checks aud plaids tbey are often very lovely. No doubt we shall see worn during the summ^ many murs frocks tashioned of tbe old uew-fashloned ginghams.
Neckwear  Gets Attention.
Among the many vcre«>.^ jrles of the toilette none commaud more atteo- tion thai the new. necLwear. Ia pre¬ vious yearu white wul lavored, btk this seasoo the collar -. wltb a touch of color will lea< la populj.-Hty. Bow- ever, one uiay wenr nluc.it any cut and kind and still he la st>le, for ths nodes offer much \urlety. Much orlg- taallty la being dUp'i.«.!. The new narrower tyi>e« oi sail' • aua Ktoo col¬ lar* ate la evldeiuc. auc; tbe Mm meitH to boMtog tta owb.
Af^RANQING THAT NEW COLLAR
Pleee Regarded as One ef the Prettiest
Decorations of the Present
Season.
Thosrt now c-oPars that nre renlly long bins strips of fabric, mnde doable, are perhaps one of fhe prettiest bit.s of neck (iceessnry that we hnve had this Benson. They nre renll.v new, nnd they possess therefore the charm that alwnys nttncheis Itself to novelt.v. Moreover, fhey nre In themselves nt- trnctivp, Thev h-nd themselve.s to nil «ort.9 of grnneful nrrnn((ement, nnd they give a soft nnd becoming line nt the ne(k, no matter how they are ar¬ ranged.
To begin with, they nre mnde In the form of a double bins strip, from six to eight Inches wide, and perhaps n .vnrd or a yard nnd a quarter long. They nre tho simplest things In the World to mnke, for fhe double width of fabric Is Just sewed up, like an en¬ velope, then turned right side nut, the end left open Is blind stitched shut, nnd the whole thing Is pressed.
Hut In spite of the fart that these new collars are so ensy fo make, they nre well worth buying rendy made, for they aro sold In the shops reasonably In the most nttrnrflve fabrics.
These new collars mny bo worn In many ways. Of course the most usual wny Is fo bring It nround the neck, rolled over softly and tie It In a four- in-hand or lof)so knot at fhe end of the V-shaped line of the blouse In front. In this way these collars are worn on frocks of serge nnd foulard. Some¬ times, too, the ends are tied like a Windsor tie In a bow, with two loops and two end.''.
Sometimes a little bias fold of net Is stitched along one side of the center of fhe collar, nnd by menns of fhls net the collnr Is baKted Into position. Oth¬ erwise It Is best to pin It securely nt the bnck with a little silver cuff pin.
These collars are made In nntln, or¬ gandie, georgette crepe, crepe de chine nnd chiffon. They are made In every -color Imnginnble, iis well ns In white; nnd they aro even mnde In little <'becks. Some of them In foulard show nil sorts of (lesign.s, nltliough the beS]t foulnrd ones are dotted, Tlion there are others of black nnd white cheeks, in a is^tlier big fle^l;:ti, but one that Is very efTectlve, nevertliless, cither with a white or black or navy blue frock.
ClOTHES AND ART
Garments Were Never More Be¬ coming and Graceful.
Fall Styles Have Been Receiving Soma Attention, but No Changs Haa aa
Yet Been Sighted.
 \
Women are now wearing tho most becoming, the most graceful and gener- nll.v the most nrtlstir clothes that they
!t nrtlstir clothes thn •en piven by style rn
Why   under these  circumstances  they should ever jiine for a cbnnee of sll-
GAY BAYADERE SASH IS WORI^I
wide   Ribbon    Decoration   Comes   In
Rich Color Combinations;  Nice
With  Eton Suit
With her new Eton Jacket the sum¬ mer girl Is wearing a dashing baya¬ dere Itoman sash, which gives color and gaiety to her whole costume. These bayadere sashes are of very wide ribbon of faille weave and sub- etnntinl weight and tho sash Is long enough to gc^wlce nround the waist nnd fall in fringed ends Just below the hip at one side. The.se gay sashes come all reody to put on, with fringe sewed to the ends, In the neckwear and  accessory  departments.
If you are quite slim and willowy you can knot the sash ends over one hip. If you are rather plump and have a substantial sort of waist meas¬ ure, draw the sash ends through a large buckle and do away with the knot which, of course, takes up extra ribbon.
The Roman stripes In the bayadere sashes come In various rich color com¬ binations and almost all of the com¬ binations look well with an Eton suit of blue serge or of shepherd check Berge or cheviot.
WING JRIMMED, ROLLED BRIM
Tailored Frock of Navy or Black Satin With Colored Vest.
honette It Is difficult to understand, de¬ clares a fashion authority. They ap¬ parently do, for every advance style bulletin heralding a possible change Is eagerly read and the new etyles prom¬ ised awaited with breathless Interest.
The exi)erience of the past two years hns been that every heralded change of silhouette hns proved a false nlann, and from present prospects the rule will hold good during next fall and probably during the winter. This is looking a good way ahead; but fall styles are being discussed somewhat, and DO chnnge has as yet been sighted. Straight and narrow seems to be the rule.
The dress sketched, made of black satin for first preference, is cut on straight nnd narrow lines, and would be an excellent and very serviceable frock. It Is very simple and depends for distinction on good tailoring, and on the selection of the material for vest, collar and nndersleeves. Crepe do chine, faille silk, heavy silk crepe or plain satin, either in white or a llRht shape such as*'bluet, corn color, etc., mny be.used.
The wide sash Is caught with a larg€ flat buckle at the back, the sash end.« falling nearly to tbe edge of the tunic or oversklrt. ,
Navy blue satin might be nsed for c frock of this type with good effect with -vest, collnr nnd sleeves of blu( nnd white printed foulard. As the sea son advances silks continue to be mor* and more used for outer garments ol all kinds, wltli serge nnd kindred wool materials ns the trimming rather tlmr the other way ahout, as was formerlj the custom. Tho continued and in¬ creasing demand for wool for nrnij use makes It seem safe to predict that heavy silks and satins will play ai Important part In tho development ol garments for next fall  and winter.
This stennlng velng-trimmed hat has a charm which le Irresistible. The nar- row rolled brim ie \h two-toned effect The arrangement of the wings is rather daring, but yery smart and the flowing veil, which is a popular fash- Ion this spring, aoftsns ths effect ef th« Whole. ^
From Triangle of Chiffon. Take a triangle of chiffon about 4C i to 48 Inches on each side. Edge 11 i with lace, a pretty silk Ince edging abfout three Inches wide, slightly gath-, ereil .around two whole Sides nnd to within twelve Inches from each end on fhe third side. Attach half a yard of ribbon to each of the corners where the luce ends. Can you begin to guess what it Is? Why the cutest little "matinee" you ever saw* in your life. The Bide where the'lace is attached for about twenty-four Inches goes around the neck, the plnin edges cross surplice style, the ribbons on the two corners tie in a sush bow at back, a lit¬ tle French bouquet of flowers ties the edges together under the arms to make sleeves, and the third point falls down the back and is held In place by tbe sash. It's so easy to make and it Is t^e cutest lltUe thing to wear that yoa could imagine.
A Kattting Help. White bone kolttlug uttedles slip ttkrough the wool much qulcktf If tbey are first flled us a plulu kitcufa file as yow would a lead peB«U Into • leog, aaaootb j^olat	
811k Will Still Be Popalar. As tbtf season advaucea, and,uew gar- Bienta suggesting what next fall will divulge lu tbe way of clothes' are shown, U Is evident tJiat silk fabrics win continue to play a very Important (tart Wool U uuw tbe luxusy aud allk «ulte the everyday fabric, rather Ihan tbe other way about M was formeiiy the caae. tiitk dieasea are trluuasd with acant allowaucea of wooL
rEWER   SHADES   OP   81
Only Txsfo  Tints ef Brevm  and of Gray Since Colors Are Under QnvftrnfAent Orders.
Mllndy's dainty foot will no Ic be clothed In the fllm<»y, sllkj shoes tinged In shades ns hrilllaBtl the nutiimn leaves. Tim colors gone under government order two shades of brown nnd two of —nnd for the firsf time tbelr abfl will be noted In tho Into summer fnll.
The populnr cbnmpngne, pearl tints f/om   blue to gold  so  varied] to   mntch   any    gown    perfectly- perfectly   to   be  sensible,   many hnnds think—will  be a  thing of pijst, n beauty gone forever.    But shoes. In   their  nftempts   to  keep with  mlln<ly'8  skirts,  hnve   won They nre only limited to  nine Inclj for to bring   the  skirt   «lown   to shoes would be more wasteful thai bring fhe  shoes tip to  the lower of the skirts, sny fho wise economl|
r.ut cloth uppers fnr women's sll nre coining more in vogue.    But d<| applaud,   fon<l   husliaiulH.     Thnt not   mean    that   such   shoes   will cheaper.     Not  nt all.    Dealers  Stl the better class of clofh^B just as d| as the best of kid.
They will come Into vogue for a ' simple  renson.    Cloth   uppers  to\\ tho contour of a well-turned ankle throw Into relief the myriad curve slendornesa   nnd   gracefulness   to light the owner as well as artistic I looker.   And Mother Eve never for a good bet yet,
Svithal the shoes will be more siblo, look   more like shoes than gloves and   despite  tliu   soaring of the flnPr grades of leather not m\ dearer than last winter in the opll of tho larger shoe dealers.
COVERT CLOTH COATS AG/
style of Vears Ago Revived, but 8l| ness Marks Lines That Were Pr nounced  in  Days of  Yore.
Here It Is again, almost exactly whnt It used to be a dozen yenrs| BO  ago when   covert coats   were ne plus ultra of si)ring smartness ll
Hero  It   Is,   ij^  the attractive  111 tan covert   color,  with  smooth,  cif Hues nnd with seams emphasized bias strappings of tlie material—J^ a replica  of  tho coat you  posses nnd took such comfort In yenrs years ago.
At least   that Is   what    you when  the   saleswoman   brings  It and assures you It Is the very lat thing from   Paris and a sensatlonj the spring   openings.    J5ut   when put fhe coat on you realize thnt y^ silhouette does not look at all like i (Silhouette of yore covert-coated.
Then yoii had pronounced curves bust and hips. None of these are tlcenble now, In the new Parls-inspll covert top coat
Its lines are slim and svelte wit beautiful flatness down the back over the  bust,  nnd It has   the pleasant   crlspness  and   freshness I suggestion that made it so admiral a garment  for spring wear, whe wns la fashion years agoae.
Small   doubt   that  the    covert coat will find Immediate favor wheii has   really    established   Itself   as| spring arrival.
SLEEVELESS SPRING  JACK
,^\
Sleeveless Jackets are relieving strain that the contlnue<^ use sweaters and country coats ent wlien the girl who goes In for ef chooses her spring and summer robe. Velours waistcoats like the pictured here will be very popu| this season, for they combine the imum of comfort with the ntaxln of style. This one Is fabricated black and ywKite, Is cut square un the arms and buttoned at the sM The waist is held by a narrow belt.|
Fony  Jackets Ars Worn.
Pony^Jackets are almost aa popv as Eton Jack,ets. Tbe pony Jacket inf straight Hoes to the hip, whar the Eton ta chopped to just above waistline.   With the ponjr one wc low glMlle  or   aash, showing  ob hip, below |the jacket edge; with Eton the aash Is a girdle, anuf trliu about the nurmal waiaMoe. jackets look  well wltb tbe  new la walsted blouaea, eudiug lu e low or sash at   the hip.    Socue   of ti blooses are   of satla withu>ea|| hroldecy en tbe front, aud  the touch of color Is very effective a pony jacket of dark serge ; the et, of course, metchlug a serge aUrtii •fraj^lbt aad aleader Uoaa.